Saint-Pierre and Miquelon notebook · 1. The way there

the road to

SAINT-PIERRE AND MIQUELON

From Granby to Fortune, Newfoundland: Quebec, Maine, the Atlantic provinces and two ferries before reaching that small piece of France lost in the North Atlantic. Part 1 · The way there.

SAINT-PIERRE 1763

Pointe aux Canons

Saint-Pierre and Miquelon · French since 1763

The route

Granby → Fortune, NL

Quebec · New England · the Maritimes · Newfoundland

The car

Rivian R1S

Two ferries, nineteen charging stops

The line

26
1

it all leads
out to sea

26 1

Granby → Maine → the Maritimes → Newfoundland,
then the ferry to Saint-Pierre.

we load the boot, a coffee, and off we go! heading east

Reading the map

  • a stop along the way
  • the way out, to Newfoundland
  • the two ferries
  • Saint-Pierre and Miquelon
The Rivian R1S on the way out
km 0 · Granby heading east →
01

A road to the far end of France

Granby → Coaticook → Maine

Granby → Saint-Pierre and Miquelon · about 1,800 km, two ferries, five provinces

From Granby, we took to the road heading east with our Rivian R1S, bound for Saint-Pierre and Miquelon. A long crossing of Quebec, New Hampshire, Maine and the Atlantic provinces before reaching that small piece of France lost in the North Atlantic.

Direction Sherbrooke, then Coaticook, where we made our first charging stop of the trip — and on a destination like this one, it certainly wouldn’t be the last!

Then we crossed the border at Saint-Herménégilde early in the morning — we were even early — before entering Vermont and continuing towards New Hampshire.

Route 26 carries us through the wooded landscapes of New England. The forests, the lakes and the low mountains already hint at the wide open spaces waiting for us.
Setting off
The road to Saint-Pierre and Miquelon
The road to Saint-Pierre and Miquelon
Charging stop in Coaticook, Quebec, Canada
Charging stop in Coaticook, Quebec, Canada
Charging stop in Coaticook, Quebec, Canada

The first

Coaticook: the first of nineteen charging stops on the trip.

The border
Saint-Hermenegilde, Vermont, United States
Saint-Hermenegilde, Vermont, United States
Saint-Hermenegilde, Vermont, United States

Early morning

We were even early.

Route 26
The road to Saint-Pierre and Miquelon
The road to Saint-Pierre and Miquelon
The road to Saint-Pierre and Miquelon
The road to Saint-Pierre and Miquelon
The road to Saint-Pierre and Miquelon
The road to Saint-Pierre and Miquelon

New England

Forests, lakes and low mountains: the wide open spaces are already beginning.

02

A picturesque little village

New England
Around a bend in the road, we came across a very picturesque little village.

Then we carried on.
The Rivian parked in front of a small white village building, an American flag on its pole
The whole village fits in one photo
A picturesque little village
Two rural mailboxes on a leaning wooden post at the edge of the grass
The mail still arrives like this
A tiny village public library, a white house with a green roof and its painted sign
The village library, all of it
A birdhouse on a post, beneath a yellow moose crossing sign
Watch for moose

The mail

Mailboxes right at the roadside, their flags up for the mail carrier.

The road to Saint-Pierre and Miquelon
A brown Maine highway sign dedicated to the memory of Bernard L. Powers, for sixty years of service to the Department of Transportation
Sixty years of service
A straight, empty road running between two walls of conifers
No one ahead, no one behind
03

Rumford, Maine

Rumford Falls
In Rumford we make our first stop to admire Rumford Falls. The Androscoggin River rushes between the rocks, in a setting marked equally by industry and forest.

The sight is magnificent. We take a few moments to enjoy it.

Then we get back on the road.
Rumford, Maine, United States
Rumford, Maine, United States
Rumford, Maine, United States

The falls

The Androscoggin River rushes between the rocks, in a setting of industry and forest.

Rumford, Maine, United States
Rumford, Maine, United States
Rumford, Maine, United States
Rumford, Maine, United States
Rumford, Maine, United States
Rumford, Maine, United States
Rumford, Maine, United States
Rumford, Maine, United States
Charging up
Stops in Farmington and Bangor for the trip’s 2nd and 3rd charging stops.
Electric charging stop in Farmington, Maine, United States
Electric charging stop in Farmington, Maine, United States
Electric charging stop in Farmington, Maine, United States
Electric charging stop in Bangor, Maine, United States
Electric charging stop in Bangor, Maine, United States
Electric charging stop in Bangor, Maine, United States

Maine

Two more charging stops before we reach Canada again.

04

New Brunswick

The border · New River Beach · Saint John
We re-enter Canada through New Brunswick.

The landscape changes little by little. Forests become omnipresent and the air takes on that particular freshness of the Atlantic provinces.
The border
The border between Maine and New Brunswick, Canada
The border between Maine and New Brunswick, Canada

Back in Canada

Maine behind us, New Brunswick ahead.

New Brunswick, Canada
New Brunswick, Canada
New Brunswick, Canada
New River Beach
At New River Beach we find the sea again. A wild coastline, rocks, wind-beaten trees, and the feeling that the Atlantic is already starting to set the pace.

It is a welcome break after several hours on the road. We enjoy the view, the fresh air and the quiet of the place.
New River Beach, New Brunswick, Canada
New River Beach, New Brunswick, Canada
New River Beach, New Brunswick, Canada
New River Beach, New Brunswick, Canada
New River Beach, New Brunswick, Canada
New River Beach, New Brunswick, Canada
New River Beach, New Brunswick, Canada

The break

The sand is soft, the waves wash in gently.

Saint John
We carry on towards Saint John for our last charging stop in New Brunswick. The city is an important urban centre for the province, with a busy harbour and a lively economy.
Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada
Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada
Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada
Charging stop in Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada
Charging stop in Saint John, New Brunswick, Canada

Third stop

Before crossing into Nova Scotia.

05

Nova Scotia

A dream landscape · Sydney and the Big Fiddle
Here we are in Nova Scotia, a Canadian province known for its spectacular coastal scenery and its rich maritime history. The road takes us through picturesque villages, dense forests and a jagged coastline, with breathtaking views over the Atlantic.

We stop in Pomquet to charge, then carry on towards St. Peters, where we come across a street sign that makes us smile: Toulouse Street, a nod to our hometown. For two Toulouse natives now settled in Quebec, finding a familiar name thousands of kilometres from Toulouse itself is rather funny.

Nova Scotia wins us over with its natural beauty and its welcoming atmosphere, giving us a foretaste of the adventure waiting for us in Saint-Pierre and Miquelon.
Nova Scotia, Canada
Nova Scotia, Canada
Charging stop in Pomquet, Nova Scotia, Canada
Charging stop in Pomquet, Nova Scotia, Canada
Charging stop in Pomquet, Nova Scotia, Canada

Pomquet

The trip’s fourth charging stop.

Nova Scotia, Canada
Nova Scotia, Canada
Nova Scotia, Canada
Nova Scotia, Canada
Toulouse Street
Toulouse Street, St. Peters, Nova Scotia, Canada

Thousands of kilometres from Toulouse, a familiar name.

Sydney and the Big Fiddle
We then reach North Sydney, where we make our fifth charging stop before taking the time to explore Sydney harbour. And there is no missing the Big Fiddle: this huge rendition of a traditional fiddle stands facing the water, a reminder of how much Celtic music matters to Cape Breton’s cultural history — a real gathering place, where you can feel the soul of the region.

Back to North Sydney for a sixth charging stop. Ahead of us now lies the Atlantic.
Charging stop in North Sydney, Nova Scotia, Canada
Charging stop in North Sydney, Nova Scotia, Canada
Charging stop in North Sydney, Nova Scotia, Canada
The vertical Port of Sydney sign, maritime signal flags stacked its full height
Sydney, spelled in flags
Sydney, Nova Scotia, Canada
Sydney, Nova Scotia, Canada

The harbour

Sydney, on Cape Breton Island.

Sydney, Nova Scotia, Canada
Sydney, Nova Scotia, Canada
Sydney, Nova Scotia, Canada
Sydney, Nova Scotia, Canada
Sydney’s giant fiddle standing in front of the cruise terminal
The largest fiddle in the world
Sydney, Nova Scotia, Canada
Sydney, Nova Scotia, Canada
Sydney, Nova Scotia, Canada
A group of bronze statues set on a wharf, facing out to sea
Those who left from here
Sydney, Nova Scotia, Canada
Sydney, Nova Scotia, Canada
The blue “Welcome to Downtown North Sydney” sign, Nova Scotia
North Sydney: the ferry is at the end
Sydney, Nova Scotia, Canada
Sydney, Nova Scotia, Canada
The ferry at its berth in North Sydney, seen from the far shore
Our boat to Newfoundland
Sydney, Nova Scotia, Canada
Sydney, Nova Scotia, Canada
Sydney, Nova Scotia, Canada
Sydney, Nova Scotia, Canada
Sydney, Nova Scotia, Canada
Sydney, Nova Scotia, Canada
The Atlantic ahead
Sydney, Nova Scotia, Canada
Sydney, Nova Scotia, Canada
Sydney, Nova Scotia, Canada

Bound for Newfoundland

The ferry is waiting for us in North Sydney.

06

The Blue Puttees

North Sydney → Port aux Basques · 178 km at sea
The Blue Puttees appears at the dock, an immense white and blue ship ready to take on cars, trucks and travellers. We drive the Rivian aboard.

The ship carries the name of the Newfoundland regiment that distinguished itself during the First World War. The North Sydney – Port aux Basques crossing is far more than a simple ferry ride: for more than a century it has been one of the great links between Newfoundland and the rest of Canada. The current service covers about 178 kilometres of open water and takes roughly seven hours.

The mainland slowly disappears behind us. Then, after several hours at sea, Newfoundland and Labrador comes into view.
The Blue Puttees, the Marine Atlantic ferry
The Blue Puttees, the Marine Atlantic ferry
The Blue Puttees, the Marine Atlantic ferry

The ship

The name of a Newfoundland regiment, distinguished during the First World War.

The Blue Puttees, the Marine Atlantic ferry
The Blue Puttees, the Marine Atlantic ferry
The Blue Puttees, the Marine Atlantic ferry
The Blue Puttees, the Marine Atlantic ferry
The Blue Puttees, the Marine Atlantic ferry
The Blue Puttees, the Marine Atlantic ferry
The Blue Puttees, the Marine Atlantic ferry
The Blue Puttees, the Marine Atlantic ferry
The Blue Puttees, the Marine Atlantic ferry
The Blue Puttees, the Marine Atlantic ferry
The Blue Puttees, the Marine Atlantic ferry
The Blue Puttees, the Marine Atlantic ferry
The Blue Puttees, the Marine Atlantic ferry
The Blue Puttees, the Marine Atlantic ferry

The crossing

178 km · ~7 h

North Sydney → Port aux Basques — one of the great links between Newfoundland and the rest of Canada.

Panoramic view from the Blue Puttees’ deck
178 km of Atlantic
The Blue Puttees, the Marine Atlantic ferry
The Blue Puttees, the Marine Atlantic ferry
The Blue Puttees, the Marine Atlantic ferry

The open sea

The mainland disappears behind us.

The Blue Puttees, the Marine Atlantic ferry
The Blue Puttees, the Marine Atlantic ferry
The Blue Puttees, the Marine Atlantic ferry
The Blue Puttees, the Marine Atlantic ferry
The Blue Puttees, the Marine Atlantic ferry
The Blue Puttees, the Marine Atlantic ferry
The Blue Puttees, the Marine Atlantic ferry
The Blue Puttees, the Marine Atlantic ferry
07

Newfoundland, the great crossing

Port aux Basques → Fortune, by road
At Port aux Basques we disembark and start a new crossing — this time by road.

The Rivian charges in Robinsons, then in Corner Brook, South Brook, before a short stop in Norris Arm. The landscape changes quickly, from coast to countryside. The mountains draw closer, the forests grow denser, and the air takes on Newfoundland’s own particular freshness.

The sun shines fiercely, yet the air stays cool. And then, a surprise: the thermometer reads 34 °C. In Newfoundland!

We carry on towards Gander, then Grand Falls-Windsor, before reaching the island’s east coast.
Coming ashore
Port aux Basques, a panoramic view on arrival
Newfoundland
Port aux Basques, Newfoundland, Canada
Port aux Basques, Newfoundland, Canada
Port aux Basques, Newfoundland, Canada

By road

A new crossing begins, this time across the island.

Port aux Basques, Newfoundland, Canada
Port aux Basques, Newfoundland, Canada
Port aux Basques, Newfoundland, Canada
Port aux Basques, Newfoundland, Canada
Port aux Basques, Newfoundland, Canada
Port aux Basques, Newfoundland, Canada
Port aux Basques, Newfoundland, Canada
Newfoundland and Labrador, Canada
Newfoundland and Labrador, Canada
Newfoundland and Labrador, Canada
Newfoundland and Labrador, Canada
Newfoundland and Labrador, Canada
A panoramic Newfoundland landscape, along the road

Robinsons, Corner Brook, South Brook, a short stop in Norris Arm: the Rivian charges the whole way.

Charging stops
Charging stop in Robinsons, Newfoundland and Labrador, Canada
Charging stop in Robinsons, Newfoundland and Labrador, Canada
Charging stop in Robinsons, Newfoundland and Labrador, Canada

Robinsons

Then Corner Brook, South Brook, Gander, Grand Falls-Windsor.

Charging stop in Corner Brook, Newfoundland and Labrador, Canada
Charging stop in Corner Brook, Newfoundland and Labrador, Canada
Charging stop in Corner Brook, Newfoundland and Labrador, Canada
Charging stop in South Brook, Newfoundland and Labrador, Canada
Charging stop in South Brook, Newfoundland and Labrador, Canada
Charging stop in South Brook, Newfoundland and Labrador, Canada
Charging stop in Gander, Newfoundland and Labrador, Canada
Charging stop in Gander, Newfoundland and Labrador, Canada
Charging stop in Gander, Newfoundland and Labrador, Canada
Charging stop in Port Blandford, Newfoundland and Labrador, Canada
Charging stop in Port Blandford, Newfoundland and Labrador, Canada
Charging stop in Port Blandford, Newfoundland and Labrador, Canada
Charging stop in Marystown, Newfoundland and Labrador, Canada
Charging stop in Marystown, Newfoundland and Labrador, Canada

34 °C

In Newfoundland!

The sun shines fiercely, the air stays cool.

The east coast
Road signs, Newfoundland and Labrador, Canada
Road signs, Newfoundland and Labrador, Canada
Road signs, Newfoundland and Labrador, Canada
Along Route 1, Newfoundland and Labrador, Canada
Along Route 1, Newfoundland and Labrador, Canada
Along Route 1, Newfoundland and Labrador, Canada
The landscapes of Newfoundland and Labrador, Canada
The landscapes of Newfoundland and Labrador, Canada
The landscapes of Newfoundland and Labrador, Canada
The landscapes of Newfoundland and Labrador, Canada
The landscapes of Newfoundland and Labrador, Canada
The landscapes of Newfoundland and Labrador, Canada

The landscapes

Mountains, forests and rivers: the scenery changes with every bend.

Signs for Saint-Pierre and Miquelon
Along the road we pass several signs pointing to Saint-Pierre and Miquelon — a small French territory just a few kilometres south of Newfoundland. These signs remind us how close we now are to a destination that, for many, seems distant and exotic.

We carry on towards Fortune, taking in Newfoundland’s changing scenery. Every bend offers a new view of this singular island, and we are impatient to discover what Fortune and its surroundings have in store.
Signs pointing to Saint-Pierre and Miquelon, Newfoundland and Labrador, Canada
Signs pointing to Saint-Pierre and Miquelon, Newfoundland and Labrador, Canada
The Rivian R1S on the way home
← towards Saint-Pierre last stop · Fortune, NL
08

Fortune

The last ferry, towards France
At last, we reach Fortune.

We spend the night there, and in the morning the sun rises over the sea. The light is soft, almost unreal. After all this road, we now stand at the edge of the ocean, with, on the other side, a destination that seems almost improbable.

The ferry “Le Suroît”, bound for Saint-Pierre and Miquelon, is waiting for us, ready to carry us towards that small corner of France.

We board the ferry, where the Rivian R1S causes quite a stir! It seems Rivians are not yet a common sight around here. Passengers and crew members alike are curious and come to ask us about the electric vehicle, its range and its performance.

After a few hours at sea, we finally catch sight of the islands of Saint-Pierre and Miquelon. It is a moving moment: we have travelled so far to reach this singular territory.
Daybreak
Sunrise at Fortune, Newfoundland and Labrador, Canada

Morning

The light is soft, almost unreal.

Le Suroît
The ferry Le Suroit, at Fortune, Newfoundland and Labrador, Canada
The ferry Le Suroit, at Fortune, Newfoundland and Labrador, Canada
The ferry Le Suroit, at Fortune, Newfoundland and Labrador, Canada

Le Suroît

The Rivian causes quite a stir on board: Rivians are not yet a common sight around here.

The ferry Le Suroit, at Fortune, Newfoundland and Labrador, Canada
The ferry Le Suroit, at Fortune, Newfoundland and Labrador, Canada
The ferry Le Suroit, at Fortune, Newfoundland and Labrador, Canada
The ferry Le Suroit, at Fortune, Newfoundland and Labrador, Canada

Almost there

Saint-Pierre and Miquelon

A moving moment, after so much road to reach this singular territory.

The ferry Le Suroit, at Fortune, Newfoundland and Labrador, Canada
The ferry Le Suroit, at Fortune, Newfoundland and Labrador, Canada
The ferry Le Suroit, at Fortune, Newfoundland and Labrador, Canada
The ferry Le Suroit, at Fortune, Newfoundland and Labrador, Canada
The ferry Le Suroit, at Fortune, Newfoundland and Labrador, Canada
The ferry Le Suroit, at Fortune, Newfoundland and Labrador, Canada
The ferry Le Suroit, at Fortune, Newfoundland and Labrador, Canada

Coming up

Part 2 · Saint-Pierre and Miquelon

Read on →

All trips · Home