Saint-Pierre · Île aux Marins · Miquelon · Langlade — the whole archipelago, south to north

From the ferry, the islands appear little by little. Seen from the sea, Saint-Pierre reveals itself as a small town set on the edge of the Atlantic, with its coloured houses, its harbour and the hills that close off the horizon.

Then we come ashore. And something changes.

The signs are in French. The houses have a familiar architecture, with their coloured fronts, their shutters and their roofs built for the Atlantic winds. The street names are French. The shops, the bakeries, the cars, the conversations… Yet everything around reminds us that we are at the far end of North America.

For two French natives now living in Quebec, the feeling is strange. We are still in Canada, geographically almost next door to Newfoundland, yet it feels as though we have crossed a far bigger border. It feels as though we are back in France — but somewhere time seems to have stopped.

The streets are quiet, people get around by car, on foot or by bicycle, and the mood is relaxed. We wander the streets, discovering the local shops, the cafés and the restaurants. The blend of French and North American culture makes for a unique atmosphere, where you can feel both the familiar and the exotic at once.

We also explored the area around Saint-Pierre, in particular Pointe à Henry and Grand Colombier. Pointe à Henry offers spectacular views over the ocean and the surrounding cliffs, and is an ideal spot to watch the local wildlife — seabirds and seals. Grand Colombier, meanwhile, is a hill that offers a breathtaking panorama over the island. The hike to the top is a little demanding, but well worth the effort.

We also went to Pointe aux Canons, a historic site with a sweeping view over the ocean and the surrounding islands, steeped in history, where one can picture the naval battles fought in this region over the centuries.

We also visited Île aux Marins, a small island just off Saint-Pierre, steeped in history, where the remains of old buildings and houses still tell the story of the islanders’ lives over the centuries.

To get there we took a small boat, the Petit Gravier, from Saint-Pierre harbour, which runs back and forth every 30 minutes for a 7-minute crossing. The trip is short but pleasant, with a sweeping view over the ocean and the surrounding islands.

We took the time to wander the island, take in the scenery and photograph this singular place — also an ideal spot to watch the local wildlife, seabirds and seals.

We also had the chance to take photos with our Rivian R1S in Saint-Pierre — the electric vehicle that let us explore the island quietly and cleanly, at ease on the island’s winding roads.

We take to the sea again aboard the Suroît, bound for Miquelon.

The island is different from Saint-Pierre. Bigger, more open, less urban. The landscape gives an almost surprising sense of space after the streets of Saint-Pierre. The road crosses stretches where nature seems to have taken back its place.

We then took the road to Cap de Miquelon, a spectacular natural site with a sweeping view over the ocean and the surrounding cliffs — ideal for hiking and photography. The Cape is also steeped in history, with the remains of fortifications from the days when the island served as a military base.

And this is where our adventure takes an unexpected turn.

Up on the heights of Miquelon, on a gravel track, the Rivian R1S gets a flat — a gash in the tyre. A local mechanic comes to the rescue and fits an inner tube: a fix that lets us keep going, though it will not solve the problem for good just yet.

We spend the night at Le Petit Bec, a small eco-friendly house run by Adrien. In the evening, over a proper French meal, we watch the sea in the distance. After thousands of kilometres of road, crossings and charging stops, this quiet evening feels almost unreal.

The next morning, once the tyre is fixed, we set off to explore Langlade, a neighbouring island joined to Miquelon by a dune isthmus, known for its wild, unspoilt scenery. We were delighted to discover the island and enjoy its beaches, its hiking trails and its panoramic viewpoints, from fine sand dunes to steep cliffs, by way of forests and marshes.

We spent two days at Le Petit Bec, Adrien’s small eco-friendly house, set in a magnificent natural spot with a sweeping view over the sea. The house is designed to minimise its impact on the environment, with energy-efficient fittings and nature-friendly practices.

On the first evening, a proper French meal around the barbecue, watching the sea in the distance. The next morning, breakfast facing the sea, brought by Adrien himself — jam, toast and fresh fruit juice, all homemade.

After our stay in Miquelon, we took the ferry back to Fortune, Newfoundland, to begin the journey home. The ferry crossing was a pleasant experience, with spectacular views over the ocean and the surrounding islands — a moment to relax and reflect on this adventure in Miquelon.