White Mountains notebook · the complete album

the road to

Mount Washington

From Granby to the summit of Mount Washington along Route 302 and the Auto Road, and back — the whole trip, in the order we lived it: every stop, every bend, every view.

MT WASHINGTON 6288 FT

Mount Washington

1,917 m · 6,288 ft · highest in the Northeast

The route

Granby → Mount Washington → Granby

There and back in a day

The car

Rivian R1S

There and back in a day

CANADA USA GRANBY start & finish Nulhegan Connecticut River Route 302 Pinkham Notch MOUNT WASHINGTON 1 917 m · 6 288 pi Route 105 VERMONT NEW HAMPSHIRE

The line

105
302

it all leads
to the summit

105 302

Granby → 105302,
then the Auto Road — 7.6 miles.

we load the boot, a coffee, and off we go! heading south

Reading the map

  • a stop along the way
  • the way out, to the summit
  • the way home, to Granby
  • the Connecticut River
The Rivian R1S heading south
km 0 · Granby heading south →
01

The departure

Granby, 4 a.m.
A pond edged with autumn forest, the Rivian's wing in the foreground

There are trips you plan for weeks. And then there are the ones that live in you long before you ever leave. When the alarm went off around four in the morning, Quebec was still asleep under a perfectly clear sky. The streets were deserted, the houses lost in darkness, and above us thousands of stars seemed to be watching over the start of the journey. The Rivian R1S was waiting in the driveway. Silent. Ready.

The route

Granby → Mount Washington → Granby

There and back in a day

The start

4 h

Quebec is still asleep, the sky perfectly clear.

The season

Late October: the maples are at their peak, and the summit tundra has already turned rust.

The goal

1 917 m

The highest point in the continental Northeast, reached by road.

02

Vermont

Route 105 East

As the first light appeared, the maples caught fire under the golden rays of the rising sun. Then came Vermont, and Route 105 East — a road that seems to have been drawn for people who like to take their time. In the hushed silence of the Rivian, we could hear more of the world around us. The wind in the trees. The leaves dancing on the shoulder. We weren’t simply driving through the landscape: we were part of it.

The Rivian stopped at the “Welcome to Vermont” sign
First sign: Vermont
VERMONT Freedom and Unity

The coat of arms

The pine and Green Mountains of its arms — Vermont calls itself the Green Mountain State.

WELCOME TO VERMONT

The sign

The one you meet crossing the line, on Route 105 East.

The state

Vermont

“Green Mountain State” · motto: Freedom and Unity
Crossed by Route 105 East

03

The Nulhegan River

Essex County, Vermont

A little later, we stopped near the Nulhegan River. It was one of those places you expect nothing in particular from, and that ends up becoming a memory you keep. The water moved gently under the golden morning light, mirroring the red maples and the firs like an immense looking glass. No crowds. No traffic. Only the murmur of the river and the crack of damp wood under our steps. Time seemed suspended.

Yellow tansy heads in front of the forest
Tansy at the water's edge
A man from behind, leaning on the railing, looking at the river and hills
Time suspended
The Rivian at the wooden overlook, someone at the window

The river

Nulhegan

24.3 km · a tributary of the Connecticut
Essex County, Vermont

Tansy rusted by autumn in front of the river
Pale asters leaning over the water

The basin

The Nulhegan rises from a pond in Brighton and joins the Connecticut at Bloomfield. Its basin is one of the remotest corners of Vermont.

The silence

No crowds, no traffic — only the murmur of the water and the crack of damp wood underfoot.

The bank

Rusted tansy, pale asters: the bank was in flower.

The mirror

The water moved gently, mirroring the red maples and the firs.

04

The White Mountains

Route 302

Every bend revealed a new postcard scene. Valleys drowned in the morning mist. Mountains covered in a blazing forest that seemed to stretch on forever. Then we joined Route 302. And there, we fell in love with New Hampshire. You drive slowly, not because the road demands it, but because you refuse to miss the smallest detail.

Hills drowned in mist above an autumn forest
Morning mist
A village street with a large red building and the New Hampshire welcome sign
Crossing the state line
A field and hills erased by mist
The Rivian on a village road at the “Welcome to New Hampshire” sign
Welcome to New Hampshire
05

Mount Washington

1,917 m · 6,288 ft

And then, at last, Mount Washington appears. Majestic. Almost intimidating. Since 1861, the Auto Road has carried travellers to its summit. Twelve kilometres, no more than that on a map. But twelve kilometres that make for one of the most memorable drives in North America. From the very first bends, the mountain asserts its character. The slope steepens. The views widen.

The higher we go, the more the landscape changes. The tall, colourful maples gradually disappear. The spruces grow smaller. Then come the stunted shrubs. And finally the alpine tundra: a world of rock swept by the wind, where the blazing colours of autumn give way to the greys of the stone. At the summit, the view goes beyond anything photographs can show. Nobody really speaks. Because there is nothing to add. We look. We breathe. And above all, we feel incredibly alive.

After leaving the summit wind behind us, we made our way slowly back down the mountain. As we lost altitude, the landscapes found their colours again. The grey rocks gave way to spruces, then to golden birches and finally to the blazing maples that clothed the flanks of the mountain.

The summit's alpine tundra in autumn colours, distant ridges under an overcast sky
The tundra, right at the top
The Auto Road
The White Mountains above the forest, the Auto Road sign below
There it is, at the back
The Rivian pulling in at the Mount Washington Auto Road entrance
The green Mount Washington Auto Road sign: 7.6 miles, 6,288 feet, “Family owned since 1906”
7.6 miles. 6,288 feet.

The road

Mount Washington Auto Road

Opened 8 August 1861 · 7.6 miles
12 % average grade, up to 22 % at the end

The warning sign: a steep, narrow mountain road without guardrails
“Without guardrails”
The Auto Road toll house under the trees
The toll booth
The valley from the entrance, under a heavy sky

The sign puts it plainly: a steep, narrow mountain road without guardrails. The company that runs it says it has been family owned since 1906.

The oldest

1861

America’s oldest man-made tourist attraction — opened on 8 August 1861 and running without a break ever since.

The view
Rust-coloured tundra and blue ridges, a cloud bank below us
The clouds, below us
The Presidential Range ridge above an autumn valley
A man in a toque looking at the mountains from the summit
We just look

The summit

1 917 m · 6 288 pi

The highest in the continental Northeast
“Agiocochook” to the Abenaki

The summit plateau and its rust-coloured shrubs, mountains as far as the eye can see
The Rivian parked on the summit gravel, the valley behind
Up top
Someone sitting in the tundra watching the clouds caught on the ridge
The autumn colours stop dead at the treeline
The treeline

The wind

372 km/h

Measured on 12 April 1934. A world record until 1996, and still the strongest wind ever recorded outside a tornado or a tropical cyclone.

Bare rock in the foreground, the blue valley behind
A wooden walkway leads to the overlook, a person at the end
The summit walkway
The summit parking, cars lined up at the edge, mist beyond
Stunted spruces at the edge of the plateau, the valley below

The fog

60 %

The share of the year the summit spends in cloud — 328 days in 2023.

Mist rising from the valley and spilling over the parking area
The mist rising
Tundra plants clinging between pale stones
The tundra, up close
The back of the Rivian against a large boulder, ridges behind

The cold

−1 °C

The annual average at the summit. The record low: −46 °C, on 22 January 1885.

The treeline

Around 1,340 m: nearly 600 m below the summit. Above it, some 65 acres of tundra — the largest expanse east of Colorado.

The observatory

Founded 1932

Staffed year-round, at the summit.

Below our feet

At times the clouds drift below the parking area.

The range

The summit opens onto the whole Presidential Range — mountains as far as the eye can see, valleys like a sea of autumn.

The buildings
The round Mount Washington Observatory tower, bristling with instruments
The observatory
The tall red-and-white transmission mast against the grey sky
The stone tower seen from below, the valley behind
The Sherman Adams building and its heavy cylindrical anchors on the rock
Anchored to the rock
The two of us at the “Mt Washington Summit, 6,288 ft” marker
6,288 feet
The wooden “Mount Washington State Park” sign
The Cog Railway
The cog railway track disappearing into the mist
The track fades out
A red Cog Railway car at the summit terminus
The Cog Railway

The other way

1869

The cog railway has climbed the other side since 1869 — the first of its kind to succeed in the United States.

The way down
The Rivian heading back down the forest road, blue mountains ahead
Heading down
The road curving along a golden slope
The Rivian stopped in the rust-coloured tundra

The colours return

Grey rock gives way to spruces, then golden birches, then maples.

The front of the Rivian, road and mountain behind
Golden birches above the road
The colours come back
The back of the Rivian among autumn trees
The yellow forest closing the road behind us

The grade

12 % average

Up to 22 % in the last few metres — going down as well as up.

The Rivian at the bottom of the road, by the exit sign
The green sign: “This car climbed Mt. Washington — Thanks for visiting us, please come again”
“This car climbed Mt. Washington”

The treeline, in reverse

Back below 1,340 m, and the trees regain their height.

06

The Glen House

At the foot of the mountain

At the foot of Mount Washington, a stop was in order. The Glen House, standing face to face with the mountain, seemed built precisely to stretch this moment out. From the dining room and its wide terrace, the eye settles naturally on the immense silhouette towering over the whole valley. Inside, the pale wood, the stone and the tall windows created a peaceful atmosphere. Hikers were coming back from the trails. Everyone seemed to slow down, as if the mountain naturally imposed its own calm.

The Glen House stone sign, the mountain behind
The Glen House
The Rivian at the hotel sign
The hotel and its parking, mountains behind
The Rivian pulling into the hotel drive
The hotel's long facade under a low sky
The drive, the sign and the Rivian
The covered entrance porch
The facade and parking, the Rivian among the other cars
The doormat: “The Glen House — Hotel at Mt. Washington”
The doorway
The lobby with wooden columns, tall windows onto the mountain beyond
The lobby opens onto the mountain
A lounge with leather armchairs and a large painting of vintage cars
A brightly painted moose head sculpture on the stone wall
The painted moose
A plate: eggs, toast, roast potatoes and ketchup
The meal
A man sitting on the terrace by the fire pit, mountains behind
The terrace, facing the summit
A souvenir plate engraved “Mount Washington State Park — Sherman Adams Building”
The Glen House historical plaque, with an archive photograph of the old hotel
The old hotel, on the plaque

Lunch stop

Eggs, toast and hash browns, facing the mountain we had just come back down.

07

Pinkham Notch

Crystal Cascade

We had barely stepped out of the Rivian when the smell of damp forest wrapped around us. A blend of moss, resin, freshly fallen leaves and black earth. The trail slipped gently in under the tall firs. Very quickly, the sound of water reached us. Faint at first. Then more and more present. A few metres further on, Crystal Cascade appeared. We stayed there for a few minutes. Without speaking. Simply listening.

The trail
The autumn slope above the Pinkham Notch visitor centre sign
Pinkham Notch
The Pinkham Notch Visitor Center sign, Appalachian Mountain Club
The Rivian at the visitor centre sign
The Rivian in profile, a US flag above
Mountains and autumn forest from the parking area
An “Avalanche information” board under the trees
A wooden signpost: Old Jackson Road, Tuckerman Ravine, Crystal Cascades
Crystal Cascades, this way
The Tuckerman Ravine Trail sign: Crystal Cascades 10 min, summit 4.2 miles
A ten-minute walk
The trail running between the birches
The trail
A painted sign: “Pinkham Porch, elevation 2028.8 ft”
2,028.8 feet
Someone leaning behind a birch trunk on the trail
A tangle of bare roots across the trail
The trail's roots
The undergrowth
A cluster of small white flowers close to the ground
Mosses and lichens around a pale boulder on the ground
The forest floor
Spruce needles, very close
Pink flower heads on long stems
Tight yellow tansy buttons

The undergrowth

A carpet of needles, yellowing ferns, and mountain maples lighting the ground with red and orange.

The smell

Moss, resin, freshly fallen leaves and black earth — the smell of the great Northeastern forests.

Crystal Cascade
A white torrent between boulders, a dead trunk across it
The brook and its wooden footbridge among yellow foliage

Crystal Cascade

About a hundred feet

In two drops · a ten-minute walk from the visitor centre

The falls and, above them, the suspended footbridge
The footbridge above the falls
The two of us, beside the brook
Water tumbling down granite slabs among autumn foliage
Crystal Cascade
A person standing mid-stream at the foot of the falls
The Rivian R1S on the way home
← Route 302, Route 105, home heading north
08

The way home

Toward the border

On the way home, magnificent landscapes kept us company all the way to the border. Not least that pond in a tiny village whose name escapes us: the clouds were mirrored in it, making the water almost magical. Then, around a bend, we caught sight of wild turkeys walking calmly along the verge. An unexpected sight, and a reminder that nature always has its surprises.

A silhouette at the pond's edge under a mackerel sky
The sky in the water
The still pond, someone standing on the shore
Wild turkeys walking calmly across a meadow
Wild turkeys, at large

On the verge

Wild turkeys, quite unbothered, halfway across.

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